Strategies for Clear Skin

MODERATE ACNE
You have it if, in addition to black- and whiteheads, you have more frequent dome-shaped bumps.

Clear-skin strategy Try the regimen outlined for mild acne for two weeks. If there's no improvement, see a dermatologist. The ammunition you'll be prescribed will be stronger and may include application of a topical retinoid (Retin-A or a derivative like Differin or Tazarotene) as well as bacteria-busting oral or topical antibiotics. "The specific therapies will vary according to your skin's condition and how well it responds," says Alan Shalita, M.D., chairman of the department of dermatology at the State University of New York Downstate Medical Center in Brooklyn.

Another choice is ClearLight, a high-intensity light source (similar to a laser) that kills surface bacteria, explains Arielle Kauvar, M.D., a clinical associate professor of dermatology at New York University School of Medicine in New York City. A series of eight treatments over the course of a month costs about $1,200, and results last anywhere from four to six months. Another option: the Nlite-V, a fast-pulsed dye laser emitting light that can kill acne-causing bacteria and even heal blemishes. Two sessions are recommended; costs range from $600-$1,500 per session; results can last up to three months. (Neither is covered by insurance.) Last but not least are oral contraceptives, which may help by countering the hormonal fluctuations that give rise to some cases of acne.

Extra help To soothe red, angry-looking breakouts, try using a sulfur-based mask once a week. "Sulfur has calming properties," explains New York City dermatologist Linda Franks, M.D. Good options: emerginC deglazing mask, a clay-based mask ($35; emerginc.com) and Mario Badescu Drying Mask ($18; mariobadescu.com).