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Restaurant Road Test

After a long outdoor run (or a marathon shopping excursion) on a frigid afternoon, I often crave the meal that warmed me up all winter long when I was a kid: canned tomato soup and grilled cheese. But once I tasted the Roasted tomato soup en croute at Moody's Bistro & Lounge in Truckee, California, my craving got more sophisticated. Topped with a flaky pastry crust, the soup is a tasty twist on an old favorite, thanks to the addition of shallots, mint, and red wine. "You don't need to use heavy sauces," says executive chef Mark Estee. "If you're using fresh ingredients, the flavor of your food will be naturally enhanced." With a salad, this soup will definitely be my meal of choice through the spring thaw.

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