Braised Leeks in Orange-Fennel Dressing

Cut the leeks in half lengthwise to within 1 1/2 inches of the root end. Rinse under running water, being careful to rinse out all the sand between layers of leaves.

Combine the leeks, 3/4 teaspoon of salt, lemon, and bay leaves in a large skillet or Dutch oven. Add water to cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat. Cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes, or until tender; turn leeks halfway through cooking. Drain and place in a serving bowl just large enough to hold them (11 by 7 inches).

Meanwhile, combine the orange juice, tomato halves, fennel, pepper, and remaining salt in the same skillet. Boil for 8 minutes or until reduced to 1 cup, pressing down on tomatoes to flatten. Discard the tomato skins. In a blender, process the mixture and oil until smooth. Pour over leeks so that they are almost submerged in juice. (Note: If the leeks are not submerged, place all in food storage bag, push out thhe air and seal the bag.)

Cool to room temperature and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour before serving.

For a white wine that will stand its ground, try a chenin blanc like Domaine des Baumard Savennieres ($17), which has a lively green apple and citrus aroma. Equally good is the Oregon-produced Bethel Heights Pinot Gris ($13), a white wine with a buttery flavor and hint of toasted nuts.