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The Truth about Permanent Makeup


What every woman needs to know

By Anne Marie O'connor

Q: What are the risks of permanent makeup, and how can I find a qualified technician?

A: You're right to have reservations about permanent makeup, says Roberta D. Sengelmann, M.D., director of dermatologic and cosmetic surgery at the Washington University School of Medicine in St. Louis. "It's enticing because it saves time and you can look done-up all the time," says Sengelmann, "but it does have its drawbacks."

To apply permanent makeup, also called micropigmentation or dermagraphics, color pigment is implanted in the upper layer of skin by a traditional tattoo machine (an electric needle punctures the skin at 50 to 3,000 times a minute, depositing particles of ink) or by manual implantation (also done with a needle). There is some discomfort, but the intensity of the pain depends on the location of the tattoo and on the method used. Among other factors to take into account: Permanent makeup can smudge or blur if the pigment leaks into surrounding skin, and makeup styles do change with time, notes Sengelmann.

The most common procedures are filling in eyebrows, lining eyes, and coloring lips. It usually costs between $400 and $800 per area, but the color can fade, so you may need touch-ups every six to 12 months.

If you decide to get permanent makeup, choose a technician certified by the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP). To find one in your area, visit spcp.org.

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READER COMMENTS

I am a certified permanent cosmetic specialist in St. Louis and have been in the beauty industry for over 9 years. The main point that I feel is never made about the application of permanent cosmetics is that the manual method is the best and only method of choice if you are wanting the makeup to appear natural and soft. I have seen too many people who have had the automatic machine method of deposit and it is dark and liquid liner looking. Do your research prior to choosing a technician and personal referal is the way to go.
— Christina Passanise

As an artist experienced in both the manual and machine method, I can tell you that it's not the tool, it's the artist that's responsible for soft natural results. Permanent makeup done by a talented artist can give you symmetry and enhance features, vs. looking made up all the time (the latter is not my goal). Yes, go to an artist who is an SPCP member, make sure you see plenty of photos of previous clients, and that you feel comfortable during and after the consultation.
— Jul Feuling