3. Rancho La Puerta, Tecate, Mexico

North star of the spa galaxy
In 1940, Edmond and Deborah Szekely founded North America's first fitness camp, a BYOT (bring your own tent) retreat nestled in the high desert and ringed by purple mountains. Guests came to commune with nature sans electricity and running water while learning what were then considered avant-garde fitness practices: yoga and guided meditation, plus low-fat vegetarian cuisine (which guests helped plant and pick when not milking the cows).

Today, you can leave your tent at home: The rancho's expanded into a 3,000-acre Mexican villa offering luxury digs (fireplaces, balconies, tile floors) plus every imaginable fitness amenity: sparkling pools, tennis courts, several indoor gyms plus three open-air gyms with wood floors and mountain views. The fitness focuses on the Great Outdoors: interpretive hiking and climbing through sagebrush flats to Mount Ku-chumaa, long considered sacred to Native Americans. With a holy hill at its doorstep, Rancho's mind-body program is nothing if not inspired. Enjoy the Medicine Wheel and Spiral Dancing workshops, which build heart muscles while expanding your chakra, or The Inner Journey, a guided meditation.

While the Rancho still grows its own, it's come a long way from camp chow. Rancho's longtime chef, Bill Wavrin, remains a legend in his own lunch time, plucking stuff from the back 40 (and yes, you can still help pick) for use in gourmet fare like sweet potato souffles and chilled melon soups. He'll even share the recipes, also available in the spa's own cookbook. Despite the buzz of activities, the Rancho remains a laid-back place where que sera sera is the modus operandi. Hike all day or spend it horizontal in a hammock -- no problema. But better book early. Only the bell tower in San Juan Capistrano has a higher return rate.

Details: From $1,645 per person, double occupancy for one-week minimum stay Saturday to Saturday. In-cludes meals, lodging and all fitness classes and programs. Spa treatments extra. Call (800) 443-7565 or visit www.rancholapuerta.com.