Meet Alpha Arbutin, a Little-Known Secret for Glowing, Even Skin

If you've been dealing with discoloration, you're likely familiar with the big-name brightening ingredients out there: hydroquinone, licorice extract, vitamin C. But there's an unsung spot-fading hero waiting in the wings, poised to become your new favorite skin-care superstar. Known as alpha arbutin, this ingredient effectively targets hyperpigmentation without any of the potential problematic side effects of its brightening counterparts.

Ahead, dermatologists weigh in on everything you need to know about alpha arbutin, including how to use it to achieve the glowing, even complexion of your dreams. (

Alpha Arbutin, Explained

Arbutin is a naturally occurring compound found in many plant sources such as bearberry, mulberry, and pomegranate, explains Ife Rodney, M.D., a dermatologist and founding director of Eternal Dermatology in Fulton, Maryland. "Arbutin" and "alpha arbutin" are often used synonymously or interchangeably; alpha arbutin is simply the chemically synthesized version most often found in skin-care products. There's also another variant, beta arbutin, but don't bother seeking this one out; some studies have shown that alpha arbutin is over 10 times more effective than beta arbutin, notes Claire Chang, M.D., a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York City.

How Alpha Arbutin Works

Alpha arbutin is a choice brightening ingredient because it's a derivative of hydroquinone, one of the most effective skin-lightening and spot-fading actives out there. But while hydroquinone is a champ at gradually fading dark spots, it has a safety profile that's a little, well, questionable. Here's the sitch: hydroquinone can be toxic to living cells and has the potential for side effects such as ochronosis (a bluish-black discoloration of the skin tissue) as well as irritation, according to Dr. Chang. It's why you can only use the ingredient for a few months at a time, and also why it's been banned entirely in the E.U. and Japan.

But back to alpha arbutin: "It works by slowly releasing hydroquinone over time, inhibiting tyrosinase, the key enzyme responsible for the production of melanin, or pigment, in the skin," explains Dr. Chang. In other words, less tyrosinase means less pigment, which means less discoloration and fewer unwanted dark spots. And, along with its excellent brightening abilities, alpha arbutin is also known to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, she adds.

Now, you must be thinking: If alpha arbutin releases hydroquinone, doesn't it have the same kinds of side effects? The short answer is no. "Because the hydroquinone is being released slowly, the skin isn't exposed to too much of it at any one time, mitigating the likelihood of those side effects," says Dr. Rodney. So, in general, arbutin doesn't have the same type of toxicity as hydroquinone does, adds Dr. Chang. That's why you can use consistently it in your skin-care routine without having to take a break.

Who Should Consider Using Alpha Arbutin

There's not yet enough data showing that alpha arbutin is safe to use during pregnancy (because it does release some amount of hydroquinone), so skip it if you're pregnant, advises Dr. Rodney. But pretty much anyone who's not pregnant and looking to fade any kind of skin discoloration, be it caused by sun exposure, acne scarring, or melasma, should be safe to try it, she adds. It's a great option for those with darker skin, which is more prone to hyperpigmentation in general due to having higher amounts of melanin in the first place, notes Dr. Rodney. It can also be used to even out a generally blotchy skin tone, versus targeting specific spots.

If you have sensitive skin, there's more good news: Alpha arbutin is relatively well-tolerated, compared to other powerful ingredients such as acids and peels, which may cause irritation and dryness, points out Dr. Chang. It also doesn't make the skin more sensitive to the sun, meaning you can safely use it year-round, she adds. That being said, trying any new skincare ingredient always comes with the risk of irritation or an allergic reaction. To play it safe, especially if you have sensitive skin, test it out on a small spot on your forearm before applying it to your entire face, advises Dr. Chang.

How You Should Use Alpha Arbutin

Yet another big pro here is that alpha arbutin has not (!!) been shown to negatively interact with any other ingredients,so you can easily work it into your existing routine, notes Dr. Rodney. It does, however, work especially well when combined with other spot-fading ingredients — i.e. vitamin C, azelaic acid, kojic acid, niacinamide — so consider seeking out products that contain more than just alpha arbutin to get the most brightening bang for your buck. Dealing with hyperpigmentation is complicated, and can take some trial and error. Many of these active ingredients work in different ways; by combining them, you're coming at the issue from every angle.

Follow the directions of the particular product you pick, but, generally speaking, you'll want to apply it twice daily on clean, dry skin for maximum results, advises Dr. Chang. And while alpha arbutin is very stable, heat can make it less effective — so be sure to store your product in a cool, dry place, says Dr. Rodney. (Ideally not the bathroom, especially if it's particularly bright or gets super steamy.)

The Best Products with Alpha Arbutin

SkinCeuticals Phyto Plus (Buy It, $87, skinstore.com): This effective yet gentle serum, with its combination of arbutin and kojic acid (another great skin-brightening ingredient), is recommended by both derms. Together, these two work wonders for undoing sun damage, according to Dr. Chang. What's more, the product also has hyaluronic acid for added hydration, notes Dr. Rodney. (